YOU NEED: soft wool; fusing; 1 separating zip; decorative cord; 2 tabs.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 3 cm for hems and hood’s outer edge.
NB! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 2 pieces
3. Pocket – 2 pieces
4. Flap – 4 pieces
5. Front band – 2 pieces
6. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
7. Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
9. Hood side – 2 pieces
10. Hood center – 1 piece
Fusing: front bands, back neckline facing, flaps.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands, back neckline fusing ,flap details.
2. Lay flaps right sides together and overstitch along three edges. Cut overstitching seams, turn the flap right side out and press. Topstitch the flap along the perimeter.
3. Stitch hood sides to hood center and neaten seams. Neaten holes into the hood. Fold hood’s outer allowance into wrong side, fold it under and topstitch on the hood.
4. Neaten pocket’s outer contour, press it according to the pattern. Fold upper edge into wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch the pocket on front part, mark flap’s place. Topstitch the flap according to marks, press it downwards and topstitch close to joining seam.
5. Lay front parts right sides together, adjust edges, measure front edgings’ lengths. Stitch the zipper to edgings. Press closure edges under.
6. Stitch middle back edge. Press seam allowance leftwards, topstitch back left detail along the seam.
7. Stitch side/shoulder seams.
8. Stitch back neckline facing to front bands. Neaten front bands’/facing’s outer edges. Lay front band on front part right sides together and overstitch along front edging/neckline inserting the hood between them. (Overstitch on front part’s side.) Overstitch front edging’s lower corner. Turn front edgings into right side, press.
9. Press sleeve facing’s upper edge. Stitch the facing to the sleeve. Stitch sleeve edges and neaten them. Press sleeve seams. Topstitch facing’s pressed seam on the sleeve. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
10. Make decorative topstitch at 0.5 cm from the zipper. Pull the cord into hood holes, set tabs on cord ends.