YOU NEED: whipcord; lining; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); elastic cord for the hood; 2 holders for the cord; cord for trimming.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for garment/sleeve hems of upper part, 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Sleeve insert – 2 pieces
4. Sleeve – 4 pieces
5. Hood – 2 pieces
6. Hood center part – 1 piece
7. Hood facing – 1 piece
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Large sacking – 2 pieces
10. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
11. Inside pocket’s off-set welt – 1 piece
Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm width for trimming. Stripes’ length depends on trimming’s length.
NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm. Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.
12. Front part – 2 pieces
13. Back part – 1 piece
14. Sleeve – 2 pieces
15. Small sacking – 2 pieces
16. Hood – 2 pieces
17. Hood center part – 1 piece
18. Inside pocket’s large sacking – 1 piece
19. Inside pocket’s small sacking – 1 piece
1. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contour’s.
2. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking’s corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front part’s right side. Stitch small sacking to zipper’s lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Stitch sackings’ edges. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
3. Stitch sleeves to back part and front parts. Topstitch along armholes. Stitch sleeve insert to details after joining them together, inserting trimming detail, then topstitch. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch hood parts. Topstitch the hood along its center part. Stitch the hood into neckline. Make loops into the hood according to marking.
4. Apply the fusing, and press it along the center. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt. Topstitch small sacking on wrong side. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of lining. Stitch the welt. Stitch large sacking to upper line of pocket marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking’s corners. Pocket’s another side enters the seam joining front band. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings’ edges fixing pocket’s corner at one side.
5. Stitch front band to front part’s lining. Stitch jacket’s lining, stitching sleeves into open armholes. Stitch parts of hood lining together, then join them with hood facing. Stitch hood lining into lining neckline.
6. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
7. Press garment/sleeve hems first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch garment/sleeve hems.
8. Topstitch edgings and hood.
9. Topstitch ready jacket.
10. Pull the cord into the hood.